EVH Phaser and Flanger Settings

In a Guitar World article from November 2014, Eddie Van Halen explained how he got his signature Phaser and Flanger sound.

In regard to the Phaser…

 I used it with the control set between 9 and 10 o’clock. I still use it the same way today. I just locked into that one setting, and I’ve used it ever since.

 

and the Flanger…

I set the three knobs on the left between 11 o’clock or 11:30, and the last knob on the right [regeneration] is all the way up. I might fine-tune the speed a little to match it to the tempo of the song, like on “Unchained” where the sweep goes perfectly with the riff. I was just goofing off and experimenting. It wouldn’t have sounded good to use the flanger all the way through. The riff just needed a little bit here and there. It’s a cool, tasty little tidbit that I threw in there to draw attention to the riff.

EVH Wolfgang Questions Answered

I recently ordered an EVH Wolfgang Special with Floyd Rose tremolo, and I plan to start a fan site around all the Wolfgang models. (Which began with Peavey, and then later Fender.) As such, I had some questions regarding the EVH Wolfgang Special model that needed answering as the EVH Gear website isn’t as specific as I’d like. Those questions and answers are below.

Where is the EVH Wolfgang Special Floyd Rose model manufactured for its multiple model years? 2013, 2014, 2015 (I know some are made in Mexico, some in Japan, and some in Indonesia. Which ones, where?)

–Production moved from Japan to China in 4/2012. Then to Mexico in 6/2014.

The EVH Web site states that the EVH Wolfgang Special Hardtail has “Vintage Size” frets. What actual fret gauge is that?

–Since the hard tail version was made in factories located overseas (that have sense closed) I do not have the exact measurements of those frets. I will investigate and let you know what I find!

What is the EVH Wolfgang’s neck profile? (In the past, the Peavey-made models were asymmetrical. Is that still the case?)

It is indeed still asymmetrical.

The EVH website states that the maple top on the EVH Wolfgang Special is a veneer, even on the solid painted models. Is that correct? I would expect that the flamed finishes would be a veneer, and the solid finishes wouldn’t have a top at all.)

–You are correct. No veneer on the solid colors.

I’m quite impressed with Fender’s fast and informative response. Thanks FMIC!

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How to Color Calibrate Your Monitor

Excerpts from Digital Photography School…

“If you want to obtain accurate colours in your photos in Lightroom (or indeed any other software), no matter what you may read elsewhere, you need to calibrate your computer monitor. If you don’t, the colours in your photos won’t be accurate, and you will never produce a print (or any other form of output, such as a Blurb book) that matches the colours on your screen.”

“Mac owners will be fine. The Mac operating system (OS X) works very well with colour. Every program you use works with the monitor profile and displays accurate colour. It’s one of the reasons that many professional photographers use Apple computers.

If you have a Windows PC however the story is different. The operating system knows the monitor profile is there, but not all programs use it. It’s possible to have the same photo open in two programs, and for the colours in one to appear different to the other. One program is using the monitor profile, and the other isn’t.”

“Colorimetric devices are made by several manufacturers. The main players seem to beDatacolor (who make the Spyder models) and X-Rite (which makes Colormunki).

For many photographers, the least expensive model in each manufacturer’s range is probably sufficient. That’s good news because it means that you don’t have to spend a lot of money in order to calibrate your monitor.”

Setting Hyperfocal Distance for In-focus Foreground and Background

“You are out photographing a landscape. You have a nice foreground and background in the frame, and you want as much as possible in focus. You set a small aperture to get a nice wide depth of field. But still, you know that not everything in your frame will be sharp.

The fact is that lenses just cannot keep everything – from what is right in front of you all the way to the horizon – acceptably sharp at the same time. You can focus on something very close at the risk of blurring the background. Or you can focus on something far away and risk blurring your foreground elements.

So where should you focus? More particularly, how close can you can focus while still keeping the background sharp?”

From Digital Photography School – full article here.