I’ve had a couple people ask me, “if you wanted a ‘Strat-like’ guitar, why not just buy, well.. a Strat?” (Meaning a FENDER strat since “Strat” is actually a trademark of Fender.) I have several answers to this question, but the ones that matter are 1) Fretboard Radius, 2) Tremolo design, and 3) String Trees. Let me explain in greater detail below :
1) Fretboard Radius – the fretboard radius is the roundness that the fretboard has. It is measured in inches, based on an imaginary circle in which the fretboard is a section of the circle’s circumfurance. The lower the fretboard radius, the rounder the fretboard. The higher the radius, the flatter the fretboard is. Rounder fretboards are more comfortable to play, but flatter fretboards are more precise and intonate better. (Bending a note on a rounder fretboard can cause the string to “fret-out” killing the sound, this doesn’t happen on a flatter fretboard.) For the most part, modern Fender Strats have a radius of 9.5″. Over the years I’ve become accustomed to a 12″ radius neck, and prefer it. So, that’s strike one against the Fender.
2) Tremolo Design – The Fender synchronized tremolo (tremolo is actually a Fender-created term for Vibrato) was revolutionary for it’s time, but hasn’t really changed since its creation. The tremolo connects to the body and pivots via 6 screws. Unfortunately, this causes tuning problems because using any aggressive vibrato can cause the tremolo to bind on its screws knocking your tuning out of wack. You’ll notice that when Leo Fender left to create G&L with George Fullerton that one of the first things he updated was the tremolo to a 2 stud design that holds tuning better. Strike 2 for Fender’s strat.
3) String Trees – Their primary purpose is to guide strings toward the tuning pegs, and to keep even tension across the guitars neck’s nut. The problem with string trees is that a lot of times when the tremolo is used the strings can become snagged on the trees (and sometimes the nut) creating tuning problems. Many moden guitar manufactures get around having to use string trees by angling the headstock back thus keeping even tension on the nut and preventing string-snag. Strike 3 for Fender.
Now, please don’t take this post as an assualt against Fender. Fender makes an excellent guitar, I’m just making note of 3 things about the Strat that bothers me. There are a bunch of other things about the Strat that I love. (It’s versitility for example. I also love the “C” neck shape.) Many people (if not most) that buy a Strat buy it because it’s exactly what they want. They want to buy a guitar that was around in the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s and for the most part is exactly the same. They want a true representation of a “Classic” guitar. (It would be like being able to go to the Ford dealership and still be able to buy a new 1969 Mustang.)
So, about my purchase… I bought a Parker P30, which is essentially a lighter weight, differently shaped Strat. It remedies 2 out of my 3 Strat complaints. 1) Fretboard Radius : The Parker has a 10″ – “13” compund fretboard radius. 2) Tremolo Design – This one didn’t get remedied. The Parker has a 6 screw trem, but I don’t plan to use it much anyway, so it wasn’t a big deal for me. (I have other guitars for hardcore Trem action.) 3) String Trees : The Parker has an angled headstock which eliminates string trees. So, for $519 I get the great verstility of a Strat without 2 of my 3 Strat peeves. I think I made out well.
